Nepal, Trekking around Annapurna - the Jomsom side
Annapurna Circuit: on this page you will find information and pictures of the
trail starting in Eklebhatti and passing by Pakling, Phalyak, Dagajhoing to the windy pass and then down to Jomsom.
you can enlarge most small pictures by clicking in on of the corners.
If you want to see a picture in full sizze, click additionally on F11
NATT trail No. 54: From Kagbeni to Jomsom by the high route and over the windy pass **
Let’s say it directly; this is an arduous trek and much more tiring than walk down in the
riverbed. Instead of 2 hours from Eklebhatti it will take a full day. But what a beautiful day is awaiting you!. So if your legs are still strong (there should be no problem when
you have crossed Thorong La before) and you are not in terrible hurry this is a trail which very few people take but absolutel yworth going!. I also first took it the first time
only in in the year 2011! as I was not sure if there was a proper pass to cross the ridge. But finaly I met someone who had succeeded so I went there with Prem and
we even marked the trail.The three villages Pakling, Phallyak and Dagajong give you already a slight impression of the villages in Dolpo.
The trail starts at the long suspension bridge a little south of Eklebhatti. When you
look to the other side, the whole hillside looks completely barren and dry and no one would expect a village which large fields and plenty of apple orchards up there. In fact
you are just before the slope of a large plateau a little above an therefore don’t see anything.
Climbing the dirt road you soon com to the little village of Pakling, which has also
some field to the north in direction of Kagbeni but on the right riverside. Turn left into the village.
Would you ever have expected so many and large field when walking doen on the road ?
The southern fields of Pakling
When you leave Pakling an the irrigated fields it is directly again very dry and you continue to ascend to the next village Phalyak
A signpost "Phalyak" will guide you up to the road again. Follow this road
up and you will reach the long
wall protecting the fields of Phalyak. Passing it on the left, you will see a large chorten above you on the
right. This is the entrance to Phalyak. Right at the beginning of a little plaza is a big white house on your right where you can ask for cold drinks or food. Phalyak is a beautiful village where you can see already
a little the influence and style of Dolpo and it is worth wandering around for a while and taking advantage of the photographic possibilities. We ordered dhal bhat and I was happy to have to wait 45 min so I had
plenty of time to walk around. It is such difference to be in an authentic village rather than in a lodge settlement.
On the square the Didi of the big white
house offers Dal bhat and noodle soup. We knew it because we asked but to help fellow trekkers Prem proposed to write Restaurant on the wall. I think that also accommodation should be possible,
because it is a very big house. The cooking of a fresh dal bhat takes always a long time so we had plenty of time to stroll around the village. And 45 min were even
not to long. i think that on my next trek i will probably stay here for one night to have emore time for thes beautiful villages.
The little lane near the gompa- on the way to Dolpo
In the Gompa
When we asked if someone could show
us the gompa the people started calling in the street and finally a women came an showed us the Gompa. Near the Gompa there is another house with a lodge sign. From Phayak there is a direkt trail to the pass
Saldang la and to Dolpo and i guess this is the main trail to go there. From Saldang la one should have a good view into Mustang. you probably need 2-4 hours but i have not tried it yet.
Going to Dhakarjhong; near the gompa is a sort of tunnel under a house bringing you to the outside of the village. From there you can already see the next village
which is a little bit above on a plateau on the other side of a little valley and river.
Dhakarjohng is much smaler than Phalyak and has two village parts. The lower
part has very narrow lanes while in the upper part there is more space and even a littel pond.
Dhakarjhong : in the left corner one can seethe path climbing
up to Saldang Pass and into Dolpo
continue near the pond in direction of the ridge and the telecommunication tower, it is a steady and long ascent.
Batase Bhanyang - the windy pass (3435 m)
From the pass “Batase Bhanjyang” (3435 m), appropriately named since it means “Windy Pass”, one
has a superb view from the left of Upper Mustang, Thorong La, Tilicho peak, the Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri and Tukuche peak. When we were there, the force 7 winds blew my glasses off my face, but the view kept us
there for half an hour while the storm raged on
it was really windy! and my glases felw away.
view to the north and kagbeni and down to old Jomsom
It ia an other 2-2.5 hours to descent to Jomsom.
see also the fantastic picture Gallery of Vladimir Rusev who made this trail on mountain bike
Overview Annapurna region
Kagbeni to Jomsom by Road
NATT 55; Jomsom to Marpha by road
NATT 60; Jomsom to Marpha by Thini and Dumba lake
To the page
NATT- guidebook and maps