Nepal, Trekking around Annapurna - the Jomsom side

 Annapurna Circuit:  on this page you will find information and pictures of the trail starting in Eklebhatti  and passing by Pakling, Phalyak, Dagajhoing to the windy pass and then down to Jomsom.

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NATT trail No. 54:  From Kagbeni to Jomsom by the high route and over  the windy pass **

Let’s say it directly; this is an arduous trek and much more tiring than walk down in the riverbed. Instead of 2 hours from Eklebhatti it will take a full day. But what a beautiful day is awaiting you!. So if your legs are still strong (there should be no problem when you have crossed Thorong La before) and you are not in terrible hurry this is a trail which very few people take but absolutel yworth going!. I also first took it the first time only in in the year  2011! as I was not sure if there was a proper pass to cross the ridge. But finaly  I met someone who had succeeded so I went there with Prem and we even marked the trail.The three villages Pakling, Phallyak and Dagajong give you already a slight impression of the villages in Dolpo.

The trail starts at the long suspension bridge a little south of Eklebhatti. When you look to the other side, the whole hillside looks completely barren and dry and no one would expect a village which large fields and plenty of apple orchards up there. In fact you are just before the slope of a large plateau a little above an therefore don’t see anything.

Climbing the dirt road you soon com to the little village of Pakling, which has also some field to the north in direction of Kagbeni but on the right riverside. Turn left into the village.

Pakling

Would you ever have expected so many and large field when walking doen on the road ?

The southern fields of Pakling

When you leave Pakling an the irrigated fields it is directly again very dry and you continue to ascend to the next village Phalyak

Phalyak

A signpost "Phalyak" will guide you up to the road again. Follow this road up and you will reach the long wall protecting the fields of Phalyak. Passing it on the left, you will see a large chorten above you on the right. This is the entrance to Phalyak. Right at the beginning of a little plaza is a big white house on your right where you can ask for cold drinks or food. Phalyak is a beautiful village where you can see already a little the influence and style of Dolpo and it is worth wandering around for a while and taking advantage of the photographic possibilities. We ordered dhal bhat and I was happy to have to wait 45 min so I had plenty of time to walk around. It is such difference to be in an authentic village rather than in a lodge settlement.

Dal bhat
On the square the Didi of the big white house offers Dal bhat and noodle soup. We knew it because we asked but to help fellow trekkers Prem proposed to write Restaurant on the wall. I think that also accommodation should be possible, because it is a very big house. The cooking of a fresh dal bhat takes always a long time so we had plenty of time to stroll around the village. And 45 min were even not to long. i think that on my next trek i will probably stay here for one night to have emore time for thes beautiful villages.

The little lane near the gompa- on the way to Dolpo

In the Gompa

 When we  asked if someone could show us the gompa the people started calling in the street and finally a women came an showed us the Gompa. Near the Gompa there is another house with a lodge sign. From Phayak there is a direkt trail to the pass Saldang la and to Dolpo and i guess this is the main trail to go there. From Saldang la one should have a good view into Mustang. you probably need 2-4 hours but i have not tried it yet.

Going to Dhakarjhong; near the gompa is a sort of tunnel under a house bringing you to the outside of the village. From there you can already see the next village which is a little bit above on a plateau  on the other side of a little valley and river.

Dhakarjhong

Dhakarjohng is much smaler than Phalyak and has two village parts. The lower part has very narrow lanes while in the upper part there is more space and even a littel pond.

Dhakarjhong : in the left corner one can seethe path climbing
up to Saldang Pass and into Dolpo

continue near the pond in direction of the ridge and the telecommunication tower, it is a steady and long ascent.

Batase Bhanyang - the windy pass (3435 m)

From the pass “Batase Bhanjyang” (3435 m), appropriately named since it means “Windy Pass”, one has a superb view from the left of Upper Mustang, Thorong La, Tilicho peak, the Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri and Tukuche peak. When we were there, the force 7 winds blew my glasses off my face, but the view kept us there for half an hour while the storm raged on

it was really windy! and my glases felw away.

view to the north and kagbeni                        and  down to old  Jomsom

It ia an other 2-2.5 hours to descent to Jomsom.

see also the fantastic picture Gallery of Vladimir Rusev who made this trail on mountain bike
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/outfaced/sets/72157648487678502/page6/

Overview Annapurna region

   Kagbeni to Jomsom by Road   

  NATT 55; Jomsom to Marpha by road

 NATT 60; Jomsom to Marpha by Thini and Dumba lake

NATT- guidebook and maps