Nepal, Trekking around Annapurna - the Jomsom side
Annapurna Circuit: on this page you will find information and pictures of the
little village Tiri north of Kagbeni which you are allowed to visit even when it is already in Upper Mustang.
you can enlarge most small pictures by clicking in on of the corners.
If you want to see a picture in full sizze, click additionally on F11
The little village of Tiri in Upper Mustang
In 2005 this little village was in the restricted area of Upper Mustang for which you
needed a very expensive permit and around 30 policemen were controlling that no one dare to go there. Meanwhile you are officially allowed to go there, even when the
signboard at the ACAP office still tell you that it is forbidden.
There are two ways to go there. In the dry season you can descent from the prayer
wheel wall to the river and cross it on planks acting as little bridges over the kali Gandaki. Normally you can use this way already in October. Check this out from the
viewpoint. This is the shorter way. The second way is to cross the river on the big suspension bridge and then following the trail to the north which leads to Tiri. Going
to Tiri will give you already a good impression of the dry Upper Mustang.
As Kagbeni is my love i like very much to stay a full day there and the little walk to Tiri makes it a perfect day!
High above the village is the old Gompa of Tiri. It is a hard climb but absolutely worth
to visit it. The Village itself is cute and small; to see the northern part you have first to go through a long a rather dark tunnel below some houses. it starts to the left near the square with the two fountains.
To the right from the square you see a little red house with a huge prayer wall inside.
If you are hungry or thirsty just knock on the door from the big white house just aside. The didi would like to start a lodge, maybe there is already a signboard today.
The Sandup Choeding Gompa
The Samdup Choeding Monastery ** in Tiri: This beautiful Gompa is perched
high above Tiri. It was built around 860 Years ago when Lama Lungzin Palsang saw the Lord Buddha in a dream and was told to build a Monastery on a spot where there
was a rock in the shape of a human heart. After a long search he found the place above Tiri. It was one of the oldest Gompas in this area but was destroyed by fire.
After being rebuilt many monks and nuns practiced there but after a time, all monks and nuns had left and the Gompa was abandoned. In 1986 the monk Lama Dukta
from Dolpo began to visit the Gompa and performed many pujas there. Asked by the people of Tiri to stay there, he accepted. Together they started to rebuild the
monastery. Lama Dukta is also an Amchi, or Buddhist monk doctor, and practises Tibetan medicine.
How to go there: A trail goes up near some big chorten. As you see the Gompa
above Tiri you will easily find it. From above you have a great view into Mustang but also of Kagbeni with Nilgiri in the background. I highly recommend this side trek!
When you are above, try to find someone with the keys for the Gompa and also ask to see the well-organized pharmacy.
The heart shapped stone an the view into Upper Mustang
Tsama Nyima Dukra Lama in the old Gompa
‘The Amchi and his Pharmacy
Lama Dukta has collected many of the medicines himself but also exchanges some
with other Amchis or buys them in Kathmandu. It’s very impressive to see the hundreds of glasses full of dried plants, minerals or dried insects. And even human bones ar part of tibetan medicine.
Tsampa Nyima Lama even played some tunes for us on a tibetan instrument.
If you want to have a even better view into ‘Upper Mustang you can climb up to the golden hill.
It is on the same riverside and the step path branches of opposit Kagbeni on the trail going over the suspension bridge
Overview Annapurna region
NATT 52 Going up from Kagbeni to Muktinath
NATT 53 Kagbeni to Jomsom Route Standard rout along the river
To the page
NATT- guidebook and maps